Stitched buttonhole.



E. B. ALLEN.

STITGHED BUTTONHOLE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNBZO,1911.

8 .U 0 0 d e t n m a P INVENTOR A TTOR/VEY UNITED STATES P TENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B. ALLEN, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT. ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

STITC HED BUTTONHOLE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. I!) l App1ication filed June 20, 1911. Serial No. 634,284.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD B. lnnnn, a citizen of the United States,residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairtield and has long beencommon to lay a cord within the edge-covering over-seam stitches uponeither the upper or lower face of the fabric, the cord within theoverseam having been cut from the supply subsequently to stitching, soas to leave loose ends thereof at one of the-extremities of thebuttonhole, as in the production of buttonholes for cloth work, or thecords applied to the lower face of the work have been led into and outof the initial and final overseam stitches to connect with those of theadjacent buttonholes of a series upon the lower or unexposed face ofcertain articles in leather work, such as shoes.

One of the chief objects of applying a corded overseam to the edges of abuttonhole slit with the cord upon the upper side or face ofthe materialis to improve the appearance of the work by giving the overseam a bodyso -as to simulate a bead or ridge around the edge of. the buttonholeslit while the margin of the slit is effectively covered, even with theover-seam stitches comparatively widely spaced.

While certain of the described advantages have been secured heretoforeby the employment of'a corded overseam, the buttonhole' has beenseriously marred in appearance by the protruding out ends of the cord rface of the fabric, and it is the object of the present invention toproduce a buttonhole with the edges of the slit covered by a cordedoverscam with the extremities of the cord wholly confined with in theoversearn and entirely concealed by the same.

According to the prescnt\ invention the buttonhole is formed with anoverseam extending along both edges and embracing a cord whosecXl-rcmilics are confined within and concealed by tho ovcrscam. i

The invention further includes a buttonbolc formed with an o\-crsc.-unoverlying both face a cord with i-onccahal extremities being embraced bysaid over-scam upon one face of the fabric and a cord with its cudportions extending through and bovond the ends of the overs-cam beingembraced within the latter upon the opposite face ol the fabric.

The invention will be undcrstmul by rot'crence .to the accompanyingi'lrawiugs, in which- Figure l is anuppcr face view of a portion offabric provided with a buttonhole embodying'the present invention. andFig. :2 an enlarged perspective view of the saine. Fig. 3 is an underside view of a portion of fabric containing two buttonlmles cmlnulyingthe present invention and showing the lower cords embraced by theoverscani and led laterally through and beyond the e. tremitics thereofin a manner well known.

The buttonholc of the present improvement is or may be produced by theen'iployment of the buttonholcstitching and cordhandling devices formingthe subject of my pending application Serial No. 632,3Il2filed June 10,1911. As represented in the drawings, the fabric 1 is provided with thebuttonhole slit 2 with enlarged or eyelet portion 3 whose margins arecovered by the over-seam, formed in the present instance of interloopedupper thread a and lower thread 5.

As represented in the drawings. the overseam is produced by astitch-forming mechanism comprising a jogging needle in conjunction withthreaded and non-threaded lcopers. The needle makes an initial dcsccntthrough the fabric carrying with it a depth-stitch loop a of its threadwhich is detained while the needle rises and descends through the slitto pass an edge-stitch loop a? of its thread through the previousdepthstitch loop a. the cdgestitch nccdlc-thrcznl loop being entered bythe threaded looper which passes through the same a loop bof lowerthread which is distended for passage of the needle in ilancxtdepth-stitch thrust in which it carries the succeeding (lcplhstitch loopthrough the fabric. The buttonhole is herein represented as of thecyclolcnd type, with long barring stilclu-s arranged across lhc narrowend with tho cxtrcinitics of the stitches in alim-nn-nlwilh the depthm'cdlc-punclurcs ol the sidestitches.

The machinc rcprcscnlcd in my pending lllll lllfx llO application SerialNo. 632,332, before mentioned, is constructed to produce by a continuousoperation series of edge-covering.

overseam stitches and connected barring stitches, so that the latterhave their com ponent threads continuous with those of the edge-coveringstitches.

As represented in Figs. 1 and 2, the upper or needle-thread a overliesthe margin of the fabric around the buttonhole slit and interposedbetween the same and the upper face of the fabric is the cord 0 whichfollows the contour of the buttonhole slitand is shown as having itsextremities c terminating be neath the limb of the upper-thread dextending between respectively the first and last depth-stitchneedle'punctures and the adjacent edge-stitch loops a While this is thepreferable arrangement, it is obviously immaterial whether theextremities of the.

cord lie beneath any of the first or last few -of the edge-coveringstitches or beneath the:

barring stitches, in case thefbutto'nhole is of the barred end type. Theimprovement is obviously applicable to straight buttonholes in which theedge-covering. stitches extend in parallel lines throughout the lengthof the buttonhole whose ends are reinforced by barring or otherstitches.

of the material is provided with asecond cord (1 which-extends laterallyfrom the left ,across the closed extremity of the first buttonhole slitand along its right-hand edge,

5.35 around the eye and thence along the lefthand edge Where it crossesthe first section and is led across the closed end of the adjacentbuttonhole and along its right-hand edge and around the remainder of theslit as i549 -.;gereviously described. In the completed but-"' tonhole,the initial portion of the cord enters and emerges from the adjacentends of the covering o'verseam by which it is embraced,

the portions at the extremity of the buttonhole being overlaid by thebarring stitches s ;trom which the under thread 6 is led to the initialcovering stitch of the adjacent I f buttonhole.

gThe edge-covering stitches are shownin y' tfihpies of this patent maylie obtained for As represented in Fig. 3, the under facequired effect,;and this condition involves economy in both the time and thread re-.

quired in, the production of the buttonhole, while it isfound that acheap cotton cord may be readily used to advantage where a silk coveringthread is required without pro-.

ducing a icontrast which isdetrimental to the appearancewof thebuttonhole. The covering stitches are herein shown and described" as ofthe two-thread chain-stitch type, but the specific character of the overseam and thejmethod of making the same are obviously immaterial to thepresent im provemen'ti Having thus set forth the nature of theinvention, what I claim hereinfis 1. A' fabric havinga stitchedbuttonhole comprisin an overseam extending along both edge and' itrouiidan endof the same,

and a cord-embi'iyiivithin saidioverseam and overlying thelouter orexposed face of the fabric warming-its extremities at the oppositeend'of the buttonholecovered and concealed by said overseam. 1

2. it fabric having ,a" stitched buttonhole comprising a continuousoyerseamextending along both edges and acrhss an end'o-f the same', anda cord embraoedwithin said over seam and overlying the outer or exposedface of the fabric with its extremities at the opposite end of thebut-tonhole covered and concealed by overseam stitches whose componentthreads are continuous with those of the adjacent stitches along the'edges of the buttonhole.

In-testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, inthe presence of:

two subscribing witnesses.

EDWARD ALLENQ Witnesses: I

HENRY J. MILLER, HENRY A. KORNEMANN, Jr.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington,D. C.

